Field Report – Home Sweet (Urban) Homestead –

On a gritty block in Oakland, Calif. — the kind of neighborhood that quickens your step even on a bright Sunday afternoon — a whiff of Italy filled the air while skateboarders ollied in the empty street. If you followed the source, a steel pipe sticking out of a ground-floor window, to Anya Fernald and Renato Sardo’s plumbing-supply-store-turned-loft, you would glimpse a spread that was impressive even by California’s bounteous standards: lemon pies and kale tortas cooling on the counter; homemade sausages awaiting grilling in the fireplace; fava beans and peas simmering on the stove; tape-labeled jars of goose fat and tomato sauce standing at the ready. Fernald was eyeballing whether the leg of goat wrapped with homemade pancetta would fit in the new wood-burning pizza oven. (Not quite.) “Do you want some rabbit sugo?” she asked me before I had the chance to set down my bag. “I got 10 rabbits from my client in Shasta yesterday. I was going to make some chicken-fried rabbit for tonight.”

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